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How to Change Brake Pads & How to Change Rotors

14- 09- 2022
By phuong Thuy

 

This page will show a brake pad and rotor change done on a 2008 Ford Escape, but you’ll find that most vehicles are pretty similar. Raise your vehicle safely, and then begin.

As always—before any job—take a look at your service manual. If you don’t feel completely comfortable doing this yourself, we can refer you to a professional technician in your area.
locate and remove the caliper guide bolts while replacing brake pads
 
Step 1: Locate & remove the caliper guide bolts
After removing the wheel, locate and remove your caliper guide bolts. Some models may have guide pins. This vehicle has an anti-rattle clip that needs to be removed before your caliper guide bolts.

Check your manufacturer’s specifications for the size of the torx or hex tool you need.

Do It Right: Sometimes it’s difficult to see the head of the pin, since it faces the motor. Turning the wheel all the way left or right will allow you to see the pin better. These bolts or pins may or may not be exposed—they may have plastic or rubber caps that need to be removed.
 
check for rust on the brake pad caliper guide bolts or pins
 
Step 2: Check for rust
After removing the guide bolts or pins, check them for pits and rust. If they have either, they need to be replaced. Rust indicates the protective zinc coating is missing and rust will spread quickly, even if the pin is greased.
 
remove the caliper and old brake pads
 
Step 3: Remove the caliper & old brake pads
Have your caliper hanger in place. Remove the caliper and hang it to keep pressure off the brake line. This model has a retaining clip that needs to be removed before the caliper can be taken off.

Remove the outside pad. If it's clipped on, you may need a screwdriver. The inside pad will stay on the caliper so you can use it to compress the piston.

Do It Right: Check the pads for abnormal wear. If you’re replacing your pads with BrakeBest pads, the box has a brake pad wear chart for reference. The chart shows the possible causes for abnormal wear that may need to be addressed.
 
remove the rotor to change the brake pads
 
Step 4: Remove the rotor
Remove the caliper bracket mounting bolts and bracket so the rotor can be removed. In our case, we're replacing the rotor. But if you're reusing the rotor, mark both the rotor and the hub so that you can replace it in the exact same orientation. You may need a hammer to tap the rotor loose, but only use a hammer if you’re replacing the rotor, because it can be damaged in the process.

Do It Right: Your rotor may have a set screw that was used to hold it in place during manufacturing. It can be removed and discarded.
 
measure the rotor thickness
 
Step 5: If you’re reusing your rotors, measure rotor thickness
It's best to replace your rotors, but reusing them is still an option. A new, OE quality brake rotor will help your vehicle stop faster and more smoothly, will be easier to install and will help your brake pads last longer. If you are reusing the rotor, all the rust from inside the hat needs to be removed with a wire brush to ensure the rotor mounts flush against the hub for smooth braking. Once the rotor is off, if you decide to reuse the rotor, it's highly recommended you have the braking surface thickness measured. Rotors wear like brake pads. Any O'Reilly Auto Parts store can measure your rotors for you, and many of them perform rotor resurfacing.
 
clean the rotor and brake pad
 
Step 6: Clean the area and parts
Use a wire brush and a wheel stud brush to clean rust off the hub and bolts so the rotor will seat properly. Inspect the caliper bracket for rust. If it’s rusty where the pads or the brake hardware ride, it needs to be replaced. You should clean the caliper bracket with brake cleaner, but don’t use a steel brush on it.

If you’re installing a new or resurfaced rotor, wipe the rotor braking surface with brake cleaner, but never use brake cleaner on a painted hat.

Do It Right: Brake cleaner will strip paint, so use it carefully. You can use a lug nut to hold the rotor in place while you reattach the caliper mounting bracket.
 
install and wipe down new rotor
 
Step 7: Install new rotor
Install your new rotor, and wipe it down one last time with brake cleaner.
 
reinstall the caliper mounting bracket and bolts
 
Step 8: Reinstall the caliper mounting bracket and bolts
Reinstall the caliper mounting bracket and bolts. You might want to grease the contact points on the hardware and brake pads first. Your vehicle’s manufacturer will give torque specifications for your caliper bracket mounting bolts and the caliper guide pins or bolts, and whether or not you should use thread locker.

Clean the exposed portion of your caliper piston with brake cleaner on a towel or rag. If the rubber boot is cracked or if there’s brake fluid leaking, the caliper needs to be replaced.
 
compress the caliper piston while changing the rotor and brake pads
 
Step 9: Compress the caliper piston
Attach your one-man bleeder tool and open the bleeder valve by turning it counter-clockwise. Use a caliper piston tool or C-clamp to push the piston back into the caliper. You’ll need to use an old pad between your caliper piston and C-clamp. The old brake pad will protect your caliper piston as you compress it back into the caliper to make room for your new pads, since they’ll be thicker than the old pads. The caliper piston should be flush with the caliper housing. Be sure not to pinch the boot, and be sure not to push on the piston itself when you do this.

When compressing the caliper piston old, discolored brake fluid and small particles of dirt will be discharged. Again, be careful not to get brake fluid on painted surfaces—it can damage paint.

Re-tighten the bleeder valve. At this point, you can remove the inside brake pad.

Do It Right: Do not open the master cylinder cap, and do not depress the brake pedal when the piston is being pushed into the caliper when the bleeder screw is open. this can allow air into the brake system causing the brake system to be bled. If you're replacing the rear disc brakes some vehicles require a special tool, Universal Brake Piston Rest Discs, because the piston screws in instead of pressing in like the front disc brake calipers.
 
install new brake rotors and brake pads
 
Step 10: Install new brake hardware
Grease all metal-on-metal contact points, making sure not to put any grease on friction surfaces. If your pads take stainless steel hardware or clips, install them now.

Do It Right: Brake hardware is designed to last for the duration of one set of brake pads—the hardware is metal, and flexes each time the brakes are applied. Eventually, it loses its flexibility, and worn-out hardware is the number one cause of brake noise. So, it’s always recommended you install new brake hardware when you change pads. If you’re not sure which side of the pad goes against the surface of the rotor, look at the old pads for reference.
 
installing new caliper with new pads
 
Step 11: Install the caliper with new brake pads
Lubricate your clean caliper guide bolts or pins with 100% silicone grease, and torque them to manufacturer specifications. Check to make sure the pads are against the rotor and that the piston is flush with the caliper. Never force the caliper and pads over the rotor—if the caliper doesn’t fit, make sure the caliper piston is flush with the caliper housing. If you used a lug nut to hold the rotor in place, you can remove it now.
 
reinstall the wheel and repeat
 
Step 12: Reinstall the wheel and repeat on remaining side
For our application, we’ll replace the outer retaining clip. Put any caps back on the caliper guide bolts or pins. Put the wheel back in place and hand-tighten the lug nuts, making sure the wheel is seated flush against the hub.

Lower your vehicle, and use a torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern. Make sure they’re tightened to the manufacturer’s specification. Repeat these steps on the other side.
 
test the brake pads and brake rotors
 
Step 13: Test your new brakes
Once the job is complete, before you drive anywhere, be sure to pump your brake pedal several times until you feel the pressure return. It should feel the way it did before the brake job.

Check your master cylinder and add fluid as needed. To help break in the new components, it’s a good idea to test drive your vehicle, slowing it 15 to 20 times from 50 to 30 miles per hour with moderate brake pressure, allowing the brakes to cool in between each slowdown. Try to avoid aggressive stops during this break-in process. Your brakes will probably smell after you’ve done this, and that’s okay. If the odor persists past 500 miles or so, or if you have excessive dust on one wheel, you may have a stuck caliper.